bodysuit panel notes
Vocab words
Seam allowance: The distance between the cut edge of the fabric and the stitching line. Usually already included in commercial sewing patterns. I recommend a small seam allowance for faux fur, between 1/4" and 1/8"
Grainline: The line that runs parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. Sewing patterns usually have a grain line drawn on them, indicating how they must be placed on the fabric. On faux fur, the fur's direction will follow the grainline. Also called "straight grain."
Registration mark: Small triangles or lines on the edges of pattern pieces that are used to line seams up correctly. I recommend marking them on your fabric with tailor's chalk or fabric marking pen.
Selvage: The manufactured edge of the fabric. It runs the length of the fabric. On faux fur, the fur's direction will be parallel to the selvage. When you purchase fabric, the length is measured along the selvage. A fabric's width is the distance between the selvage edges.
Pile: Fibers raised up from the surface of the fabric. In faux fur, the pile length is how long the fur fibers are. Pile Direction, also called Nap, refers to the direction the fur lays. It is always parallel to the selvage edge, or the length of the fabric.
Muslin: A plain woven cotton fabric that is traditionally used to make test garments. The test garment itself can also be called a muslin. It comes in many weights and widths.
Basting: Long stitches that temporarily hold seams together. They can be left in the final garment or removed after the seams are stitched. Can be done by machine or by hand.
Dart: A fold or tuck sewn into fabric that ends in a point. They add shaping to garments, frequently in dresses and trousers. They are usually triangular but are sometimes diamond shaped.
Armscye: The fabric edge to which the sleeve is sewn. The arm hole, essentially. An armscye raised closer to the armpit may help with arm mobility in a bodysuit.
Woven fabric: Fabric made of horizontal yarns interlaced into long vertical yarns on a loom. There are many weave types including plain weave, twill and satin. Jeans, table cloths, bedsheets and bandanas are made of woven fabric. Some faux fur has a woven backing, though it is difficult to work with. (It is slippery and must have its cut edges finished.)
Knit fabric: Fabric made of yarn looped together on huge industrial knitting machines. If you look closely you can see the braid-like pattern of the threads. Usually has stretch to it. T-shirts, socks, yoga pants and underwear are made of knit fabric. Most faux fur is knit.
Links
Basic hand sewing stitches:
3 Basic Hand Stitches for Historical Sewing
Tissue fitting a sewing pattern
Tissue-Fitting a Pattern, Part 1
Basic introduction to resolving fit issues
Peggy Sagers Discusses Fitting Problems and How To Fix Them on It's Sew Easy (302-1)
Pants adjustments
https://closetcasepatterns.com/pants-fitting-adjustments-best-tips-for-pants-fitting/
Armscye raise
How to Raise the Shirt Pattern Armscye by Sure-Fit Designs
Add bust dart
How to Add a Bust Dart by Sure-Fit Designs™
Reading a sewing pattern
How to Read Patterns: Sewing Basics #7
Blog focusing on menswear sewing
http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/
Blog focusing on plus size sewing, mostly womens wear, but there is a section on menswear
https://curvysewingcollective.com/
Indie pattern company w/focus on menswear
https://threadtheory.ca/collections/pdf-sewing-patterns
Video tutorials with monthly subscription. Mostly womens wear
Video tutorials with monthly subscription, has both mens and womenswear videos. If you sign up for the free trial, they have an excellent video tutorial on setting up and using a sewing machine.
https://sew-it-academy.thinkific.com/
How to take measurements (men)
https://www.allfreesewing.com/Sewing-for-Men/Sewing-for-Men-How-to-Take-Mens-Measurements
Matrices' Deluxe Zipper Tutorial
https://www.etsy.com/listing/684815037/premium-tutorial-deluxe-zipper-technique
Book on flat pattern drafting (womens wear)
Book on flat pattern drafting (menswear)
Swedish tracing paper: Perfect for testing pattern fit before cutting into fabric
All-purpose thread: Similar tex (thread weight) to Coats and Clark all-purpose thread. Great for seams.
Heavier Duty thread: Heavier tex (thread weight) than common all-purpose thread. Great for seams.
Upholstery weight thread: Great for tail holes, not recommended for seams
General supply list
https://pupdates.matrices.net/post/163394770088/fursuit-and-crafting-resources
Patterns
Cosplaysuit by Rad Patterns. Includes plus sizes. Print-at-home the size you want with a layered PDF. Womens version has roomier hips. Not a lot of registration marks on the pattern pieces however.
https://www.radpatterns.com/product-category/cosplaysuit/
McCalls M7675. A beginner pattern. Has adult and child sizes. Has a print-at-home option. Highly recommended you move the zipper to the center front seam
https://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m7675
McCalls M7908. Advanced pattern with a feminine fit. Will take major editing to get to work with a fursuit, but includes separate pieces for different cup sizes.
https://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m7908
Simplicity 8722. Flightsuit style pattern. You will need to remove the folded part at the center front seam. Cargo pockets not recommended, but you do you.